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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Chris Grover, NYC, 1986
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

Everything here is pitched in one warm register of grey. The powdery plaster wall, the raised florets of the matelassé bedspread, the gauze curtain drawn to one side, the young man’s own skin: all of it is described in the same narrow band of soft mid-tones, so that flesh and furnishing seem cut from a single continuous material. He kneels upright on the patterned cover, sitting back on his heels, a length of cloth draped over one raised arm.

This tonal unity is not accidental but a matter of craft. The light arrives low and from the side, grazing the wall until its cracks and the curtain’s folds read as texture rather than incident, and modelling the torso with the same gentle hand. The gelatin silver print carries a fine, almost velvety grain that softens every edge and lends the picture the patina of something older than its date. It belongs less to the world of advertising than to the long history of the studied nude.

Weber, celebrated for the athletic optimism of his fashion work, was here after a quieter, more classical ambition, nearer to the painters’ studio than to any campaign. The direct, faintly melancholy gaze keeps the picture from mere display; the man watches us as steadily as we watch him. The gelatin silver print, warm in scale and patient in its description of plaster, cloth and skin, was drawn by the photographer’s own hand. Its achievement is the hardest one in the nude: to make a body look at home, unhurried, and entirely itself.

Chris Grover, NYC