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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Blake, Palm Beach, Florida for Calvin Klein Obsession, 1987
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

Water is the oldest way of starting over, and here a young man pours a whole bucket of it over his head as if to be, for one second, new. He stands sideways against a bare plaster wall, eyes shut, both arms raised to tip a battered galvanized pail, and the water comes down in a single bright sheet, sluicing off the shoulder and thigh and flinging droplets clear of the frame. Nothing in the picture is still except the wall. Everything else is falling, streaming, about to hit the ground.

The caption tells us this is Palm Beach, made for a perfume called Obsession, which is to say it was built to sell longing. And yet the gesture it borrows is ancient and unbranded: the bucket bath, the sluice of water at the end of a hot day, the body rinsed in the open air. Weber knew that desire in an advertisement works best grafted onto something the body already knows. The dented pail does more here than any label could.

Weber wrote the grammar of 1980s American advertising, the sunlit skin and easy sensuality that sold jeans and scent to a whole decade, and this is one of its cleanest sentences. But strip away the commission and a plainer picture remains: a man, a wall, a fall of water, held in the crisp grey scale that only a gelatin silver print delivers. The splash is frozen mid-air, each thrown droplet a small hard fact. You feel it before you read it: cold water hitting warm skin, the whole body waking to the shock.

Blake, Palm Beach, Florida for Calvin Klein Obsession