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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Once Twice, Roos Abels, New York, 2016
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

Celadon and pale gold, steeped in black: the palette announces itself before any body does. Then the edges start to misbehave. Every contour in this picture frays into prismatic color, cyan slipping off one shoulder, a hot orange flare eating a face at the lower left, as though the scene were viewed through faceted glass rather than a lens. The tulle does the rest, clouds of it, ruffed at the collar like sea foam, so translucent that light seems to be the fabric’s actual fiber.

The title counts, and the picture keeps miscounting. One model becomes two, two become a wavering chorus, each repetition slightly less material than the last, until the frame reads as a séance staged for a couture house: the double-C monogram surfaces again and again through the netting, a watermark of luxury on bodies that barely hold together. The faces are made up to porcelain, mouths lacquered a dark rose, gazes leveled at us with the impassivity of dolls. This is fashion photography fully aware of itself as staging, closer to tableau than to document, and it trades the runway’s certainty for the instability of an apparition.

Yeste stands at the front rank of Spanish fashion photography, his work threaded through Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, and images like this one explain why it migrates so easily to the wall. Printed as an archival pigment print, the greens keep their aquarium depth and the fringes their optical shimmer. An image conceived in fashion’s orbit behaves, here, like a hallucination you can hang.

Once Twice, Roos Abels, New York