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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Roos Abels, New York, 2016
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

The bare feet are the tell: no shoes, only mustard tights, toes articulated against the nylon like a dancer’s. Shoes are what connect fashion to pavement, to season, to retail gravity, and someone has quietly subtracted them. Once you notice, the whole picture tips. She is not stepping or even jumping so much as being released, tilted backward into a blue that has no top and no bottom.

Photography earned its modern reputation by stopping bodies in mid-air; the frozen leap is one of the medium’s oldest party tricks. What refreshes it here is everything around the trick: white dunes rolling below like a snowfield that forgot to be cold, a sky saturated to the density of studio paper, and that dress, gold velvet with a liquid shine, holding its folds mid-flight as if cast in metal. Her hair streams one way, her arms another; the horizon has been dropped to her ankles. A fashion photograph is usually an argument for standing still and being looked at. This one argues that clothes are at their best a half-second before landing.

The elemental runs through Yeste’s work for Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue: wind, sand, water, cloth put under pressure until it performs. This frame, made with Roos Abels in 2016, is that strain at its most buoyant, and the archival pigment print preserves its two temperatures at once, the mineral chill of the dunes and the warmth of all that gold. She never lands. The print holds her there, a breath above the world, for as long as pigment lasts.

Roos Abels, New York