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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
(untitled), 2023
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

A scatter of tiny bright specks sits on the silver gown at her shoulder, so fine they might be spray, or sequins, or the grain of the print asserting itself. From that speckle the whole picture reorganizes. The metallic fabric behaves less like cloth than like a poured liquid, ruched into a spiral around a body held in near-silhouette, head bowed, a pink band crossing the slicked hair. Behind her the wall runs wet with color, red and magenta marbling into a pool of blue at the lower left.

Yeste is a photographer of surfaces that want to be touched, and everything here is a matter of skin against sheen. The gown gathers light along each fold and lets it slide off; the arm reads as matte darkness beside it; the background is neither backdrop nor place but pigment suspended, a chemistry photographed while still moving. One reads the image the way one reads a developing tray, watching color settle where it wants to. The downcast face refuses the transaction of the gaze, giving us the drape and the shine instead.

Such pictures made Yeste a leading figure in Spanish fashion photography, his work circulating through Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue before arriving, as here, as a thing to be kept. The archival pigment print fixes what the eye could not hold: the exact violet the silver turns under mixed light, the specks intact, the marbled wall saved from muddying. It is the object, finally, that carries the glamour, not the dress, not the wall, but this printed sheet where both were made to last.

(untitled)