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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Miami, Florida, 2014
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

Photography has a genius for making the incongruous look inevitable, and here is the proof: a young man in nothing but black Superman briefs and checkered sneakers, walking a pug down a Miami sidewalk past a sandwich board advertising ADULT & NON ADULT — TOYS, DVD’S, LOTIONS. Every element belongs to a different comedy, yet the picture insists they were always meant to share a frame. The youth is a piece of classical statuary set on a commercial street; the pug, snub-faced and unimpressed, refuses the glamour; the shop promises appetites the boy’s body advertises unawares.

One is meant to be charmed, and one is. But this street idyll is also a sly essay on how desire is sold. The near-nude body and the LOTIONS sign are in the same business; the difference is only decorum. The photograph launders the transaction, turning the sex-shop economics of the sidewalk into something wholesome, a boy and his dog. The Superman emblem on the briefs is the final joke: an all-American icon shrunk to a label riding low on the hips, heroism sold at the crotch.

Weber has understood that the American body is inseparable from American commerce; from the Calvin Klein campaigns onward he sold ideals of beauty while photographing the culture that does the selling. This Miami scene has the offhand look of documentary and the control of a studio tableau. As a gelatin silver print it holds the street in one continuous grey — the hand-lettered signboard crisp, the flat overcast light even on skin, the pug’s pale coat glowing near the black leash. Charm and critique arrive on the same sheet.

Miami, Florida