← Bruce Weber Close ×

Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Madonna, Life Magazine, 1986
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 20 x 24 in / 50.8 x 61 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 20 x 24 in / 50.8 x 61 cm
© The Artist

The vantage is a backstage dressing-table mirror, and it turns one platinum-blonde head into two. She leans in from the left, her reflection leans in from the right, and their lips meet on the bright vertical seam where glass gives onto glass. Bare shoulders, arms flung wide along the tabletop, she kisses herself. Below, the vanity is a landscape of small objects: jars and bottles, a scatter of lipsticks, a powder compact, a wristwatch, brushes standing in a clear cup, black tulle hanging behind.

The symmetry is almost too neat, and Weber knows it. The mirror’s device lets him picture fame as a closed circuit, the star meeting no one but herself, tender and complete. Yet the picture stays warm rather than cruel, because the clutter refuses to be glamorous: the greasepaint and cold cream, the ordinary drugstore bottles, undo any myth of effortless beauty. Between the two immaculate faces and the working debris beneath them, the photograph holds the whole labor of becoming an image.

Made on assignment for a great picture magazine, the image belongs to Weber’s gift for finding the private moment inside the public performance, the same instinct that shaped his fashion work of these years. As a gelatin silver print it asks to be read closely: the silvery range from the sitter’s pale curls to the shadowed tulle, the fine grain that separates one white jar from the next. Reproduction flattens such a picture; the print restores its depth, and lets a famous kiss become, on paper, a study in doubling and in tone.

Madonna, Life Magazine