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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Rick and Luisa, Point Conception, Santa Barbara, California, 1987
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 24 x 20 in / 61 x 50.8 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 24 x 20 in / 61 x 50.8 cm
© The Artist

In the years when American advertising discovered that a body could sell anything, and fashion photographers found their pictures moving from the magazine page to the gallery wall, Weber was making nudes as formally rigorous as any in the medium’s history. This is one of them: two figures, a man and a woman, folded so closely that the eye must work to sort whose hip is whose, whose arm crosses at the base of the frame. The composition is nearly abstract, a set of interlocking arcs rising from lower left toward a single arched spine.

Set against a luminous grey ground, the two bodies become a study in tone and edge. The light is soft and lateral, gathering along the crest of the back into a bright ridge and pooling into gentle shadow where thigh meets thigh. There is no face, no incident, only the slow rhythm of curve answering curve, a modern echo of Edward Weston’s peppers and dunes, where flesh and landscape trade properties. Weber lets the couple’s names, Rick and Luisa, stand in the caption while the picture withholds all individuality.

Weber remains best known for defining the look of 1980s American fashion, but the discipline in a picture like this is what secures his place in the longer history of the photographic nude. The gelatin silver print is central to its authority: only that medium’s continuous grey scale can render the almost imperceptible passage from highlight to shadow across skin, without a line or a hue to interrupt the form. Held at the right distance, the image resolves from anatomy into geometry, then back again.

Rick and Luisa, Point Conception, Santa Barbara, California