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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Natalie Santa, Barbara,CA, 1987
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 20 x 24 in / 50.8 x 61 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 20 x 24 in / 50.8 x 61 cm
© The Artist

She was climbing a moment before, hands reaching for the next hold on the rock, feet still finding purchase below, and now she has stopped, stretched full-length along a diagonal seam of stone, arms up, palms flat against the sun-warmed strata. Or perhaps the reverse: she is about to push off. The picture declines to say. What it fixes is the pause between efforts, the body laid out like one more layer in the sedimentary rock, wet hair fanned across the shoulder, the figure organized along the same slant as the cliff.

The photograph is built on a single, clarifying rhythm. Weber takes his vantage from above and slightly to the side, so the long line of back and legs runs parallel to the fractured ledges, and smooth skin is set against broken mineral in the plainest contrast. The light is high and direct, hard enough to score every crack and to model the spine as a bright ridge of its own. It is a nude, but also a study in how two surfaces, one soft and one geological, share a frame.

Weber is known for the warmth of his fashion work, the athletes and swimmers and easy American glamour, and it is worth remembering the same eye could be this austere. Nothing here is decorative; the drama is entirely in placement and light. The gelatin silver print serves the intention exactly, its grey scale running from the pale highlight on the hip to the near-black recesses of the stone. The result is less an image of a woman than of a woman becoming, briefly, part of a coast.

Natalie Santa, Barbara,CA