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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Walker Ranch, Miami Florida, 1998
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 10 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

By the close of the American century the uniform of labour had become a wardrobe, and nothing says so more plainly than the trucker’s cap perched on this boy’s head, its curved brim shading a face too composed to have ever driven a rig. The word Peterbilt, borrowed from the long-haul road, rides above his brow in cursive stitch. Below it he is bare, lit hard out of a black ground, chest and stomach modelled like something poured and set. The era dresses its desire in the clothes of honest work.

What holds me is not the torso, which is magnificent and therefore a little inert, but the eyes beneath the brim: steady, dark, faintly amused, refusing the flattery the light lavishes on the rest of him. There is a discrepancy I keep returning to. Everything below the collarbone is sculpture; everything in the face is a person, unconvinced. The cap does it too, that homely, mass-produced object sitting atop the marble, and this small friction between the ordinary and the ideal is where the picture quietly comes alive.

This is Weber’s lifelong subject, the American youth caught between advertisement and elegy, offered up with a tenderness that never entirely hides its longing. He made such faces the currency of a decade of fashion, yet each remains stubbornly singular, a particular boy who once stood here and will not stand so again. The gelatin silver print keeps him: the deep velvet black behind, the creamy highlight along the shoulder, the cap gone almost to paper white. The idealised body and the person who resists it, held in the same grain.

Walker Ranch, Miami Florida