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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
A Hungarian Walked into my Life, Bertold Zahoran, 2016
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 15 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

Which is the portrait here — the young man, or the sheet? A length of white cloth drapes across his lap and pools onto the floor, and it is the loudest thing here — a bright, agitated mass of folds set against a dark couch and a plain grey wall. The man sits forward, forearms on his knees, hands loosely clasped, one bare foot planted, and returns the camera’s look without hurry. He is nearly nude, but the picture is decorous: the cloth does the covering and gives the figure its architecture.

The organization is old and sound. Light falls from the front, modeling the shoulders and the forearm, sliding into the hollows of the drapery so every fold reads as a small ridge and valley. The vantage is low enough to make him monumental, a seated figure in the lineage of carved saints and academy nudes, yet the damp curls and the frank, faintly wary expression keep him of the present. It is built on a triangle: clasped hands at the base, head at the apex, white cloth spreading the weight.

The title says a Hungarian walked into the photographer’s life; the picture keeps its counsel and simply describes him well. Weber, who made his name in the Calvin Klein years and has always found the classical in the contemporary body, is here at his most stripped-down and traditional. As a gelatin silver print the image gets the tonal range it needs: luminous whites in the linen, a full scale of greys across the skin, deep blacks in the upholstery. A studio portrait that remembers sculpture.

A Hungarian Walked into my Life, Bertold Zahoran