← Txema Yeste Close ×

Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Alek Wek, 2017
Archival Pigment Print.
One Size Only: / 61 x 46 in / 154.9 x 116.8 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso.
Edition of 5 — 61 x 46 in / 154.9 x 116.8 cm
© The Artist

The fashion studio had discovered, by the time this was made, that white on white — a pale seamless behind a white garment — could carry a whole performance without a prop. Yeste works squarely inside that tradition and makes it new by scale. A single billowing shirt-dress of white poplin fills nearly the whole frame, its sleeves ballooning, its skirt breaking into a fan of pleats at the floor. The woman inside it plants her feet wide and braces, one hand behind her neck, the other pressed to her hip, holding a stance more athletic than mannequin.

The organization is exact. Almost everything is white or near-white, so the eye is handed only three dark facts to steer by: the model’s face and hands, the cropped dark hair, and the two black shoes that anchor the base of the figure like the feet of a compass. Light comes flat and even, so nothing throws a shadow to compete with the folds; the fabric supplies its own modeling, ridge and hollow and crease. Cut at the edges just enough to feel large, the figure reads as standing architecture, cloth pretending briefly to be stone.

Yeste belongs to the front rank of Spanish fashion photography, a fixture of Numéro, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and here he trades his fire and wind for the discipline of the empty studio. The restraint is the achievement: no landscape, no weather, only a body, a garment and light. As an archival pigment print the whites separate cleanly, poplin from background from floor, and the dark skin holds its depth against them, every fold kept legible.

Alek Wek