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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Grill, 2021
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

The blues come first: a cold, marine glaze over dark skin, deepening to green where the garden shows through. Then the geometry declares itself. A chain-link fence lies between camera and body, and its diamond mesh does what mesh always does in a photograph, turning flesh into upholstery. Each lozenge of stomach and thigh swells slightly through the wire, so the torso reads as something buttoned and padded, a surface tooled rather than born. The wire itself takes the brightest light, a thin cyan thread stitching the whole frame together.

At the center, a swimsuit printed with luxury monograms catches whatever light there is and returns it as iridescence, little emblems flaring gold, rose, and green like foil under a match. It is the only ornament the picture allows, and it is fenced off. There is a dry joke in that, the emblem of purchasable glamour behind playground wire, but the photograph does not press it. No face, no hands, no horizon; the vantage is close and level, and the body is offered as structure, a wall with a navel.

Yeste, a Barcelona photographer of the front rank of Spanish fashion, has published this sensibility in Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vogue, though an elemental undertow, water, fire, wind-worked cloth, keeps pulling his editorial work toward something older. Here the element is night itself. The archival pigment print holds the two registers the picture depends on, the near-black modeling of the skin and the small chromatic flares of the emblems, without letting either coarsen. It is a picture about barriers that ends up being about shine.

Grill