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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Greg Louganis, Los Angeles, California, 1983
Gelatin Silver Print.
One Size Only: / 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
Titled, numbered and dated on print verso.
Edition of 20 — 14 x 11 in / 35.6 x 27.9 cm
© The Artist

Three white letters ride at the hip of his dark briefs, USA, and they change everything. Without them this would be simply a beautiful body suspended in air, arms flung wide, toes pointed, a diver caught at the top of his rise against a wall of draped canvas. With them the private spectacle becomes public property: the flesh is enlisted, the leap claimed for a country. Greg Louganis floats in a pose that quotes both the crucifixion and the swan dive, and the small insignia tells us whose glory this is meant to be.

There is something faintly troubling in how completely the picture works on us. The body is offered as an ideal, weightless and unblemished, and we consent before we can think. Weber knew the athlete, more than the model, licenses this looking; sport supplies the alibi of achievement for a frank delight in the human form. Behind Louganis the backdrop sags, grommets glinting along its lower seam, and the plank floor is scuffed and ordinary, a reminder that the flight is staged, gravity only briefly suspended.

Weber, who taught American fashion to worship the athlete, treats the diver as advertisement and icon at once, and the image has only gathered gravity as Louganis’s name settled into the history of the sport. The gelatin silver print gives the illusion its substance: the skin luminous, the canvas a field of soft mottled grey, the pointed feet crisp against the shadow of the floor. It seduces us, and it lets us watch ourselves being seduced, which is the more honest achievement, and the rarer one.

Greg Louganis, Los Angeles, California