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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Kate Moss, Everglade City Florida, 1999
Gelatin Silver Print.
11 x 14 in / 27 x 35 cm
16 x 20 in / 40.6 x 50.8 cm
Hand-signed by artist, titled, numbered and dated on print verso
Edition of 10 — 11 x 14 in / 27 x 35 cm
Edition of 5 — 16 x 20 in / 40.6 x 50.8 cm
© The Artist

What the picture will not quite give me is the thing it seems to promise: she has tugged the striped bikini top down and away, yet her own crossed forearms and the bunched fabric intervene, so the nakedness stays a rumor. This is the oldest tease in the medium, and I fall for it anyway. My eye goes hunting past the wet ropes of her hair for what is hidden, and finds instead a braided friendship bracelet on her wrist, absurdly innocent, guarding the gesture of undressing.

The refusal is what holds me. Behind her a white column is bound in thick nautical rope, coil after coil, and the binding rhymes with her posture, a body wrapped and self-wrapping, offering and withdrawing in the same breath. Her mouth is slightly open, her gaze level and unhurried; she has decided exactly how much I may see, which is less than I want and more than she owes. The rough coral wall, chalky and pocked, gives the scene its dry Florida heat.

Weber prints this on gelatin silver and leaves the film’s own ragged black border showing, the notched edge of the large sheet, reminding me the seduction passed through a machine before it reached me. He taught American fashion to want the body this way, half-classical, half-carnal, and here he stages desire as an act of withholding rather than display. What stays with me is not the flesh he denies but that small woven bracelet, the one thing offered freely, and therefore the one thing I keep.

Kate Moss, Everglade City Florida