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Bruce Weber

American, b. 1946
Daria, Kate and Lara, Miami, Florida, 2008
Gelatin Silver Print.
11 x 14 in / 27 x 35 cm
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Hand-signed by artist, titled, numbered and dated on print verso
Edition of 10 — 11 x 14 in / 27 x 35 cm
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
© The Artist

Two thirds of the frame is nothing but white cotton, a slack landscape of duvet and pillow whose folds carry every gradation the paper can hold, from the bright crest of a wrinkle to its faint grey shadow. Into that expanse three faces surface only as far as the eyes: a dark head at left, a blonde topknot in the middle, a tangle of curls at right, each peering over the same soft horizon. The sheet does most of the picture’s work; the girls are its punctuation.

Photography has always been good at this kind of proximity, the sense that we have walked in on something not meant for us. But nothing here is accidental. The three settle into the bed as models settle into a pose, and the game they play with the bedding, hiding, watching, half-daring the lens, is the game fashion learned to play with candour. What looks like a morning caught by chance is a picture about looking, about how much a face will give when it withholds everything below the nose.

Weber made his name selling exactly this ease, the American idea that beauty is happiest undressed, unposed, at home. He works in warm groups and loose company, and here the trio reads less as three separate stars than as one weather system of hair and linen. The gelatin silver print is the right body for it, holding the whites open without blowing them out, keeping grain in the cloth’s shadowed hollows. It turns a rumpled bed into the whole subject and lets three pairs of eyes agree to be found.

Daria, Kate and Lara, Miami, Florida