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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
(untitled), 2023
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

She carries the flower with her mouth, not her hands: a pink bloom held lightly between the lips, the way a diver holds breath. Nothing about the gesture is casual. It silences her by occupying the exact place speech would leave from, and it concentrates the entire picture, its cool blues, its armory of spikes, onto a few creased petals.

The construction is openly declared, and that is its intelligence. In profile against a glacial ground, her head wears a crest of black spikes that radiates from crown to nape like a dark sunburst; her skin is lit toward midnight blue and scattered with pale dots, a weather system of makeup moving across the cheek. Below, the styling switches registers without apology: a ribbed sweatshirt in acid green, a gold chain, a black tag lettered Chanel. Couture sign and invented cosmology share one body, and neither wins.

This is where the contemporary fashion image has been heading: away from the record of a garment, toward a fully authored world in which the garment is one actor among several. Yeste, Barcelona-born and long established across Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, directs that world with unusual conviction, giving the beauty photograph the gravity of speculative portraiture. The archival pigment print carries its scheme of blue, green and pink at full saturation, edge to edge of the sheet. What stays with you is the discipline of it: one profile, one flower, one held breath, an image built like a sentence with nothing spare in it.

(untitled)