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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
(untitled), 2023
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

Every veil makes a promise it cannot keep. This one, a long storm of fuchsia tulle gathered at the crown and streaming past her shoulder, promises concealment and performs the opposite: the woman beneath stays perfectly legible, a dark profile, a scissoring stride across shallow turquoise water. The fabric hides nothing; it tints. It stains the air around her head pink, then pales to lilac where it drowns, dragging behind her like a small obedient sea.

I know where I am meant to look: at the grand chromatic argument, pink against aqua, a color chord pitched almost to pain. Yet what detains me is quieter, the back foot, pointed like a dancer’s, barely grazing the skin of the water. Because of it the stride stops being a walk and becomes a levitation; the sea turns to floor, the horizon to a stage line. One pointed toe, and the whole picture tips from fashion into myth. I feel the old, faintly shameful pleasure of being persuaded by artifice, and I do not resist it.

The photographer is a Barcelonan who rose to the front rank of Spanish fashion photography, in the pages of Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, and through his editorial work runs an elemental appetite: water, wind, cloth set loose. Here all three conspire. The archival pigment print gives these saturations their full, almost liquid density, pink held against turquoise without a tremor. A photograph, I remind myself, is always a fiction of presence; this one is honest about it, and walks on.

(untitled)