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Steven Meisel

American, b. 1954
Amber Valletta, Ward Pound Ridge, New York, 1995
Archival Pigment Print.
Small / Image: 50.8 x 40.6 cm / 20 x 16 in / Sheet: 61 x 50.8 cm / 24 x 20 in
Medium / Image: 101.6 x 81.3 cm / 40 x 32 in / Sheet: 106.7 x 86.4 cm / 42 x 34 in
Large / Image : 152.4 x 121.9 cm / 60 x 48 in / Sheet : 157.5 x 127 cm / 62 x 50 in
XL / Image: 184.2 x 147.3 cm / 72 1/2 x 58 in / Sheet: 189.2 x 152.4 cm / 74 1/2 x 60 in
Hand-signed by artist, titled, numbered and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 7 — Image: 50.8 x 40.6 cm / 20 x 16 in / Sheet: 61 x 50.8 cm / 24 x 20 in
Edition of 6 — Image: 101.6 x 81.3 cm / 40 x 32 in / Sheet: 106.7 x 86.4 cm / 42 x 34 in
Edition of 3 — Image : 152.4 x 121.9 cm / 60 x 48 in / Sheet : 157.5 x 127 cm / 62 x 50 in
Edition of 1 — Image: 184.2 x 147.3 cm / 72 1/2 x 58 in / Sheet: 189.2 x 152.4 cm / 74 1/2 x 60 in
© The Artist

Where does a bombshell go on her day off? Somewhere green and unglamorous, apparently — Ward Pound Ridge, the title says — where the benches are splintery and the grass has never been mowed with a close-up in mind. Amber Valletta reclines on weathered boards under an avalanche of platinum hair (a wig? one rather hopes so), in a black tinsel bodice and fishnet tights: the full vamp kit, deployed about as far from a cocktail lounge as it will go.

The joke could have been cheap — a pin-up at a picnic — but nobody here is laughing, least of all Valletta. Meisel keeps things in silvery black and white, lets the hair blaze against the dark grass, and permits one crucial betrayal: freckles. Under all that engineered blondeness sits a bare, level-eyed face, entirely unimpressed by its own costume. I keep going back to the freckles. They admit what the hair denies.

Fashion photography usually asks you to believe in a transformation; this picture shows its seams and is the more seductive for it. The bench, the fishnets, the improbable hair: props for a fantasy the sitter declines to fully inhabit, looking back instead with more patience than the setup deserves. Glamour, it turns out, survives the countryside better than the countryside survives glamour — though I would keep fishnets well away from splinters.

Amber Valletta, Ward Pound Ridge, New York