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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Ageer Ayuen, 2024
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

Three temperatures share the frame and refuse to blend: a cool pewter satin, a warm dusty-rose ground, and skin so deeply dark it reads almost blue in the shadows. The gown is the event — a duchesse silk built into a rigid funnel collar that rises past the chin and stops just under the eyes, folding the lower face away inside its own architecture. Above it, a corona of black hair fans out like static electricity.

Everything about the picture announces its construction. The dress is less clothing than sculpture, its satin creased into planes that hold light the way sheet metal would; the pose is frontal, symmetrical, the arms left to hang so the eye stays on that engineered collar. Yeste stages it against a seamless studio sweep, all atmosphere and no place, the kind of directorial vacuum in which fashion becomes portraiture becomes still life. The one warm note is the model’s gaze, steady above the silver rampart, the only thing in the frame that is not designed.

This cool, constructed elegance is where Yeste meets the art world on his own terms, and it has run through his pages in Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. What a print like this asks for is tonal control, and it gets it: as an archival pigment print the satin keeps its full range of silvers, from near-white crest to smoke-grey trough, while the rose ground stays powdery and the skin holds its depth without going flat. Hung, it behaves like a contemporary portrait that happens to be wearing couture — composed, chromatic, entirely deliberate.

Ageer Ayuen