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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Breathless, Stella Lucia, 2016
Archival Pigment Print.
20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 20 x 24 in / 50 × 60 cm
Edition of 5 — 30 x 40 in / 76 × 101 cm
Edition of 3 — 40 x 60 in / 101 x 152 cm
Edition of 1 — 59 x 76 3/4 in / 150 x 195 cm
© The Artist

The weather in this photograph is strictly local: a downpour maybe two feet wide, raging precisely where a face happens to be. Elsewhere, you have to assume, the day was perfectly fine. The light, meanwhile, behaves like dye rather than illumination: it enters the scene colorless and comes out red, every droplet near her mouth and slicked-back hair picking up a flush of lipstick and carrying it off, as if the water were stealing her makeup one bead at a time.

Breathless is a title with previous owners, Godard among them, but the breathlessness here is not an attitude; it is respiratory. Her lips are pressed into a red seal, eyes shut against the onslaught, chin tucked like a swimmer who has badly misjudged a wave. A beauty photograph is supposed to promise serenity; this one promises endurance, and somewhere inside the chaos a claim is being made about lipstick. The droplets hang in absurd sharpness, a chandelier dismantled in mid-air, and through them her composure reads as either discipline or bliss; the picture, to its credit, declines to say which.

Water is one of Yeste’s recurring elements: fire, sand and wind-blown cloth run through his editorial work for Numéro, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, and water is the one he trusts with faces. Here it is compressed to the scale of a portrait, and the archival pigment print keeps every bead intact, storm-grey at the bottom of the frame, blushing pink at the top. It belongs somewhere dry. The mismatch is the pleasure.

Breathless, Stella Lucia