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Txema Yeste

Spanish, b. 1972
Aline and Gloves, 2013
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Dye-Transfer Print / 48.9 x 62.9 cm / 19 1/4 x 24 3/4 in
Archival Pigment Print / 76.2 x 101.6 cm / 30 x 40 in
Archival Pigment Print / 116.8 x 154.9 cm / 46 x 61 in
Hand-signed by artist, mounted, titled, editioned and print date in ink label affixed to mount verso
Edition of 5 — 48.9 x 62.9 cm / 19 1/4 x 24 3/4 in
Edition of 5 — 76.2 x 101.6 cm / 30 x 40 in
Edition of 3 — 116.8 x 154.9 cm / 46 x 61 in
© The Artist

The sheen first: black leather pulled taut over knuckles, each finger a soft ridge catching a cold studio light, so that the gloves read less as clothing than as a second, lacquered skin laid over the face. Two hands enter from opposite edges and meet at the centre, one splayed across the brow, the other clamped along the jaw, and between their dark fingers a pale face surfaces in fragments — platinum hair, a blue eye rimmed in graphite, a mouth painted a coral-red that is the single warm note in an otherwise refrigerated palette.

What organises the picture is this collision of surfaces: matte porcelain skin against the wet gloss of leather, the brittle ice of bleached hair against the saturated lip. The frame stages the face as something handled, gripped, withheld — the beauty-image performing its own censorship. This is the constructed portrait operating exactly as Yeste's fashion work tends to, where the editorial brief becomes the occasion for a tightly directed tableau rather than a record of a person. The hands are props and gesture at once; they compose and they conceal.

It belongs to the strand of contemporary practice that treats the studio portrait as a deliberately built object, closer to sculpture than to reportage. Yeste, who has worked across the upper register of international fashion, here pares the apparatus down to a black ground and a calibrated light, letting texture carry the whole argument. The Galería Alta edition exists across three scales and two processes — an intimate dye-transfer print and two archival pigment formats reaching nearly a metre and a half — so the leather's grain can be read as a whisper or asserted near body-size. At the largest, the gloves stop being accessory and become architecture.

Aline and Gloves